So just what constitutes “Texas cuisine”? It might be a definition bigger than the Lone Star State itself.

ButUnderbelly Hospitalityis writing its own unique delineation with the menu atWild Oats, opening today at 2520 Airline at the Houston Farmers Market. Chris Shepherd’s new restaurant, under the direction of chef/partner Nick Fine, will offer its own take on Texas foodways that is at once familiar and newly thrilling.

“Texas food is easy to stereotype, and this restaurant is about rejecting those stereotypes and showing the underbelly of our state — the ingredients, the people and cultures who make it one of the most diverse in the nation,” said Fine, a native Texan. “My hope with this restaurant is to highlight Texas cuisine from Gulf Coast shrimp to the quail found in the Panhandle and everything in between.”

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So what’s in store for diners? Plenty. The menu begins with starters such as queso with salsa verde, pepper jelly with farmers cheese and Texas toast, shrimp and crab campechana in spicy tomatillo salsa, sausage Armadillo eggs, steak tartare with fried saltines, fried pickles with pimento cheese, and shrimp corn dogs inspired by the late, great Haven restaurant.

There are salads, too, including a crunchy take on huevos rancheros with a Valentina hot sauce vinaigrette, and chili, naturally, that is served as a bowl, cup, or “shot.” Seasonal farmers market vegetables will be treated to a new spin: for the inaugural menu they are crispy Brussels sprouts tossed in mole.

主菜包括排骨法士达;f和鸡ried steak with jalapeno bacon gravy and mashed potatoes; King Ranch casserole made with wood-grilled chicken; bacon-wrapped jalapeno quail; shrimp and masa grits; and redfish on the half shell with tomatillo chow chow. The state’s German/Czech culture is recognized with a crispy pork shank served with spaetzle and braised cabbage, and barbecue legend Tootsie Tomanetz (Snow’s BBQ in Lexington) gets a shout out with Tootie’s Pork Shank dinner served with German potato salad and slaw.

For dessert there’s iconic Texas-proud sheet cake, banana pudding, peach cobbler, and tres leches cake.
Wild Oats offers a wine list with 60 global selections, and a cocktail list referencing Texas drinking traditions: Paloma, Ranch Water, Cadillac Margarita, and other seasonal cocktails, some using Texas-made spirits.

Like Shepherd’s Underbelly aimed to tell the story of how Houston eats, Wild Oats is writing its own definition of how Texas eats. Tortillas will toast on the comal and meats will sizzle over natural charcoal and wood employing a live-fire grilldesigned by Aaron Franklinof Franklin Barbecue in Austin. Even the decor is part of the storytelling. Designer Amanda Medsger has created a look that references the breadth of Texas from the serenity of Hill Country to vintage small-town cafes to cowboy culture trappings to beer-fueled bull-riding shenanigans from Gilley’s.

The main dining room has seating for 116 with an additional 40 on the patio; and a 24-seat private dining room. Wild Oats now joins Underbelly's other restaurant Underbelly Burger which opened at the farmers market in January.

Wild Oats, 2520 Airline, 713-393-7205; wildoatshouston.com. Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m. The restaurant eventually will serve weekend brunch.

Greg Morago writes about food for the Houston Chronicle. Follow him onFacebookorTwitter. Send him news tips at greg.morago@chron.com. Hear him on ourBBQ State of Mind podcastto learn about Houston and Texas barbecue culture.